I updated more regularly than I thought I would. It's not much, as excuses go, but it's all I've got.
Last time I mentioned anything, I was exploring Berlin--more specifically, the Pergamon Museum and its incredible archeological exhibits. I left with a promise to talk about the rest of that trip (which was 5 more days. I think. It's been a while.), so here's what I remember:
And thus our first day in Berlin passed in a hazy cloud of sleep-deprived insanity. That night we awoke, more rested and infinitely more hungry, and found a hearty German restaurant/pub called Marcus Brau, where I had a huge bratwurst and the superb sauerkraut.
As a side note, I begin each new trip with a superior and frightfully unfounded sense of optimism about how easy it is to travel. To Berlin's credit, navigating their metro system is a relatively simple task, though unfortunately this only served to cement my wrongful notion of possessing excellent public transportation skills.. Having been to Rome, London, and Barcelona in the months between now and then, I can confidently compliment Berlin's efficiency and its somewhat stunningly uncrowded trains.
Berlin provided a foil to Athens. No disrespect towards Greece and its people, but Athens felt like a city that had already reached its peak--it has a deep and complex past, but it all happened such a long time ago. Berlin, on the other hand, was at the heart of the most dramatic history of the 20th century--both World Wars and the Cold War. Hitler fought and died in Berlin, and the Iron Curtain clove it in two (Was that too pretentious? Too pretentious. Sorry).
Regardless, twenty years is not very many years at all--particularly to historians--and it was fascinating to explore a city still feeling the effects of its deeply resonant past (That was also pretty pretentious--I can't help it, I'm in one of those moods). It's easy to see divergent views on how Berlin should handle its heritage. The Berlin Wall is almost completely demolished, but everyone knows where it once ran. The old Luftwaffe headquarters looks as I imagine it would have in the 1940's, a malignant grey presence that towers over its surroundings (though I suppose by the 40's much of the immediate area would have been nothing but rubble). A street away from the traditional city center, the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe claims an entire city block. Less than half a mile to the South, Hitler's bunker (and the site of his suicide) is now an apartment complex; an informative sign only appeared in the last decade or so as its residents grew tired of answering tourists' questions.
We spent a day at Sachsenhausen, which served as the administrative center of the Naxi concentration camps and a fairly horrific camp in its own right. Today, it's a desolate and forbidding triangle; the museum is spread across the few original buildings that have survived the intervening decades. The Soviets installed a triumphant monument to socialism after they assumed control of the camp in 1945--it's a subtly dissonant presence on the already unsettling grounds.
I stood in this camp, at the edge of a gravel pit where 10,000 people died in just weeks, and I cried.
Estimates place the total number of deaths at Sachsenhausen between 30,000 and 40,000. Murder on such a scale is simply staggering to contemplate. In fact, these experiences defined the trip: filled with fascinating but frequently horrifying history. The heady mixture of vitality and tragedy is what, in my mind, sets Berlin apart from my other travels.
Last time I mentioned anything, I was exploring Berlin--more specifically, the Pergamon Museum and its incredible archeological exhibits. I left with a promise to talk about the rest of that trip (which was 5 more days. I think. It's been a while.), so here's what I remember:
I started the trip by almost missing it. Reading the 24:00 time system still throws me off, particularly in the afternoon. 14:00 becomes 4:00 in my head, 16:00 is 6:00, etc. I thought I had a handle on it when I noted our bus's departure time--16:50. Then, a strange thing happened. I read "16:50", thought "6:50", and then remembered "18:50".
Anyway, the result was packing for my entire trip in 20 minutes flat. I made the bus, and (spoiler alert!) I didn't even forget anything important on the way out.
Our itinerary went something like this (in continental, or railway time):
16:50 - Ride several different buses to Nykoping. Find the only open seats are by the toilet, which has the sickly scent of diapers.
20:00 (ish) - Arrive at Stockholm Skavsta airport (a misleading name, as it's an hour away from Stockholm, and not connected to the true Stockholm airport, Arlanda.).
20:00 - Doze fitfully on the cold airport floor.
02:30 - Give up dozing, watch Lord of the Rings instead (extended edition, no less).
05:30 - Board Ryanair flight to Berlin and tsk scornfully at its distastefully bright yellow seats.
06:00 - Sleep like the dead for the entirety of the flight, including the landing.
07:00 - Stumble onto the train into the city.
10:00 - Arrive at hostel, learn the computer system is down. Decide that a 4 hour walking tour was the ideal next step.
11:00 - Begin walking tour.
03:00 - Finish walking tour, check in at hostel, promptly pass out on bed.
As a side note, I begin each new trip with a superior and frightfully unfounded sense of optimism about how easy it is to travel. To Berlin's credit, navigating their metro system is a relatively simple task, though unfortunately this only served to cement my wrongful notion of possessing excellent public transportation skills.. Having been to Rome, London, and Barcelona in the months between now and then, I can confidently compliment Berlin's efficiency and its somewhat stunningly uncrowded trains.
Berlin provided a foil to Athens. No disrespect towards Greece and its people, but Athens felt like a city that had already reached its peak--it has a deep and complex past, but it all happened such a long time ago. Berlin, on the other hand, was at the heart of the most dramatic history of the 20th century--both World Wars and the Cold War. Hitler fought and died in Berlin, and the Iron Curtain clove it in two (Was that too pretentious? Too pretentious. Sorry).
Regardless, twenty years is not very many years at all--particularly to historians--and it was fascinating to explore a city still feeling the effects of its deeply resonant past (That was also pretty pretentious--I can't help it, I'm in one of those moods). It's easy to see divergent views on how Berlin should handle its heritage. The Berlin Wall is almost completely demolished, but everyone knows where it once ran. The old Luftwaffe headquarters looks as I imagine it would have in the 1940's, a malignant grey presence that towers over its surroundings (though I suppose by the 40's much of the immediate area would have been nothing but rubble). A street away from the traditional city center, the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe claims an entire city block. Less than half a mile to the South, Hitler's bunker (and the site of his suicide) is now an apartment complex; an informative sign only appeared in the last decade or so as its residents grew tired of answering tourists' questions.
We spent a day at Sachsenhausen, which served as the administrative center of the Naxi concentration camps and a fairly horrific camp in its own right. Today, it's a desolate and forbidding triangle; the museum is spread across the few original buildings that have survived the intervening decades. The Soviets installed a triumphant monument to socialism after they assumed control of the camp in 1945--it's a subtly dissonant presence on the already unsettling grounds.
I stood in this camp, at the edge of a gravel pit where 10,000 people died in just weeks, and I cried.
Estimates place the total number of deaths at Sachsenhausen between 30,000 and 40,000. Murder on such a scale is simply staggering to contemplate. In fact, these experiences defined the trip: filled with fascinating but frequently horrifying history. The heady mixture of vitality and tragedy is what, in my mind, sets Berlin apart from my other travels.
Of course, I have managed to completely gloss over a great deal of Berlin's other charms. It's a city for artsy-fartsy teenagers who are too cynical to admit they love being part of the counterculture, hipsters-in-denial. (Hint: I'm talking about myself, here.) Not to slip into cliche, but the experience is largely a product of what you, the prospective traveler, desires to make it. If I had wanted, I could have done nothing but get lost in alternative art galleries, or spent the entire week absorbing the weight of past atrocities.
Point being: Berlin was awesome.
Cheers,
Daniel